on an 1098 and 998 itsrelatively painless as the cam followers have covers on the back of the block, so if they pop out when you pull the pushrods out its not much of a problem, on a 1275 it's still pretty painless, just make sure you wiggle the pushrods well before you pull them out.
Thermostat housing is a diffo shape, just use the old one.
The big problem is Muttro's don't have the bypass hose on the water pump, so you either need to change the water pump or block off the hose connector. The heater take off valve on the left of the head does not exist on the muttro head either, but the holes are in the casting. Either drill out the big hole in the middle of the valve mounting area, or use the muttro thermostat housing and use an in-line heater valve. Most importantly tho, if you do not use the bypass hose, you need to drill about 5-6 5mm holes in the flat part of the stat to ensure the flow is not restricted.
If you dont do that you get a 'hot spot' between 2 and 3 cylinders on the head, it blows between the two and ur shagged.
(Thermostat housing is a diffo shape, just use the old one.
The big problem is Muttro's don't have the bypass hose on the water pump, so you either need to change the water pump or block off the hose connector. The heater take off valve on the left of the head does not exist on the muttro head either, but the holes are in the casting. Either drill out the big hole in the middle of the valve mounting area, or use the muttro thermostat housing and use an in-line heater valve. Most importantly tho, if you do not use the bypass hose, you need to drill about 5-6 5mm holes in the flat part of the stat to ensure the flow is not restricted.
If you dont do that you get a 'hot spot' between 2 and 3 cylinders on the head, it blows between the two and ur shagged.
FlanFlinger 🥧,
Fri 29 Nov 2002, 9:43,
archived)